A pilgrimage to the battlefields of WWI reveals the heroism and horrors of war as well as the beauty and resilience of a region which for four years last century was hell on earth.
From September 1914 to November 1918 an open sore scarred western Europe. With the military might of two massive forces deadlocked in an apocalyptic conflict, hundreds of thousands of young men died fighting in and around rat-infested trenches that stretched 700km from the English Channel to Switzerland.
We've all seen the historic black and white photographs, as well as more recent starkly coloured movies - think All Quiet On The Western Front; Beneath Hill 60; 1917. They depict scenes filled with mud, blood, destruction and death.
So, it comes as somewhat of a surprise to discover that the area where so many fought and died, including around 46,000 Australians, is so bloody picturesque.
An example: France's Somme Valley was the location of some of the bloodiest fighting in human history, yet my wife and I enjoyed the most pleasant meal at a restaurant on the banks of the notorious Somme River, with magical views back to the mediaeval city centre of Amiens, its ancient cathedral towering into the sky.
We were visiting northern France and southern Belgium as part of a pilgrimage to the battlefields where so many Australians - including my wife's grandfather, Private Wilfred Walker (35th battalion, 9th Brigade of the AIF's 3rd Division) - fought all those years ago.
And, what an experience it proved to be. Our trip through the towns and ever-so-green countryside of Flanders and northern France included immaculately maintained war cemeteries; majestic memorials; battle-scarred landscapes, evocative museums, mediaeval towns and villages; underground cities and, above all, a universal respect for those who fought - including 295,000 Australians.
REMEMBRANCE
The starkest reminders of the Great War are the myriad of war cemeteries throughout southern Belgium and northern France. Nearly every beautiful valley contains a perfectly maintained little cemetery, so many of them caring for the remains of young Australian lads.
The first stop on our remembrance road trip (we had hired a car at Brussels International Airport) was Tyne Cot Cemetery, 10km north-east of the Belgian city of Ypres (Ieper), pronounced Eep-rah.
Tyne Cot Cemetery is the largest military cemetery in the world. The remains of 11,961 Commonwealth servicemen are interred here, including 1369 Australians.
The cemetery itself sits on the site of the the Battle of Broodseinde Ridge, where on October 4, 1917 Australian troops were part of a major assault on the well-entrenched German defensive line. They achieved their objectives, but at the cost of 6500 killed and wounded.
As I walked a path through the massed memorials to the young heroes who never returned to their families a wave of unexpected emotion crashed into me. A lover of history, I have read books on millennia of campaigns, battles, invasions etc but no amount of words can portray the futility of war better than that first encounter with a mass WWI graveyard.
THE TRENCHES
From Tyne Cot it is a short drive to the Passchendaele Museum, devoted to the Third Battle of Ypres, or the Battle of Passchendaele as it is known in Australia. Like so many battles along the Western Front, Passchendaele was horrific, costly and, ultimately, futile. The casualties (killed and wounded) for both sides totalled more than half a million, including a staggering 38,000 Australians.
Housed in and around the historic Zonnebeke Chateau, the museum takes you on a trip back in time to 1917. Among its many displays is a tribute to Sydney's Seabrook brothers - George, Theo and William - all of whom died within a day of each other attacking German positions.
The museum has full-sized reconstructed British and German trenches which give you some idea of the torturous life of a soldier in that dire conflict. But, you can also see the real thing, just up the road at Sanctuary Wood.
Sanctuary Wood Museum (Hill 62) is privately owned and run by the descendants of the farmer who held the land during WWI. When he reclaimed his battered property the Belgian farmer decided to leave untouched part of the British trench system that scarred the land. So, here you can see the skeleton of the original trenches as well as bomb crater-scarred surroundings.
Interestingly, Sanctuary Wood was given its name by the British in the early days of the war because it was a thick wood that provided some element of cover from heavy bombardment.
Near the museum are a handful of notable military cemeteries including Sanctuary Wood, with nearly 2000 soldiers interred including 88 Australians; and the picturesque Maple Copse with 308 burials, including at least 143 Canadians.
TEARS FROM HEAVEN
My wife's grandfather Wilfred Walker served with the 9th Brigade of the 3rd Australian Division. It was because of this that after a brief lunch stop in Ypres we set about finding the postage stamp-sized cemetery of Toronto Avenue, hidden in woods to the south of the city.
This cemetery is one of very few in Europe where every headstone belongs to an Australian, all of them Aussie Diggers from the 9th Brigade of the 3rd Division who died in the Battle of Messines in June 1917.
So, armed with Apple maps and images from Google Earth, we drove down a series of rural roads, stopping briefly at the football (soccer) themed memorial to the Christmas Truce (yes, German and British enemies stopped fighting on December 25th, 1914 to play a game of football in honour of the holy day).
Eventually, with thunder and lightning in the distance, we parked our trusty hire car outside a locked gate and trotted up a path surrounded by woods with our eyes firmly on the threatening skies overhead.
Finally, as the clouds opened up, our destination came into view ... and in that quiet place of eternal rest we could contemplate the monumental - and final - journey of so many young men from north eastern Australia to this land so far from home.
RESILIENCE
For part of our battlefields odyssey our home base was the charming French town of Arras. Our perfect little apartment (Les Anges Appartements) was situated on Place des Héros, named in honour of French Resistance members shot by the Nazi occupiers in World War II.
The magnificent town square, called Petit Place by locals (Grand Place next door is scarred by a large public car park), is famous throughout France for its Flemish-Spanish baroque architecture and towering Belfry (75m). But, in 1914 Arras became a war zone. After the first Battle of Arras in October of that year, major offensive actions stopped and the frontline was entrenched east of the town. Not to be occupied by the Germans was good - to have the frontline so close, not so much. The town centre was devastated by German bombardment, including the almost total destruction of the Belfry which had stood proudly since 1554.
But, what you learn in war-devastated places like this, is that the human spirit cannot be destroyed as easily as the buildings. Goodness survives and resilience overcomes. And, so the people of Arras, not only rebuilt their Belfry but reconstructed the entire Petit Place almost exactly as it had stood for centuries. A miracle any visitor to the town can attest to.
HIDDEN HISTORY
One of the great stories of World War I is hidden under the streets of suburban Arras, not far from the historic town centre.
Our access to it is through La Carriere Wellington (or Wellington Quarry), a vast network of tunnels with their origin in mediaeval times when they were the source of chalk. Long abandoned, the tunnels became part of an elaborate plan to catch the German frontline troops by surprise during the Second Battle of Arras in 1917.
The tunnels were largely dug by the New Zealand Engineers Tunneling Company (thus the name Wellington Quarry), made up of unionised mine workers. And, they didn't like the stuffy British officer system. We are told on our tour underground how the Kiwis refused to salute the Pommy officers and when threatened with court martial returned fire by threatening to go on strike. Guess what ... like so many All Black v England rugby matches, the Kiwis won.
A journey underground into this labyrinth where thousands of British and Dominion soldiers lived in the lead-up to their surprise party trick is fascinating. It is cold and damp down here but it was safe from bombardment and therefore better than the trench life alternative up above.
The most poignant part of the underground experience is seeing where the "exit" shafts to the German lines began. What it was like after weeks underground, to emerge into the outside world to kill or be killed, well, it just doesn't bear thinking about.
As for the Second Battle of Arras ... it started well with British and Dominion forces achieving significant gains, but ended in a stalemate with the lives of hundreds of thousands of young men of both sides being sacrificed for sweet nothing.
NEVERENDING STORY
Some legends take a long time to form. The tale behind the Pheasant Wood Military Cemetery in Fromelles, France is one such. The Australian soldiers buried here - at least 225 of them - were caught on the wrong side of the frontline during the Battle of Fromelles, described by the Commonwealth War Graves Commission as "the worst day in Australian military history".
More than 5500 Australians were killed or wounded in the battle on July 19-20, 1916, as well as 1500 Brits. It was sheer folly. The 5th Australian Division and British 61st charged a notorious strongpoint of the German frontline and were beaten back, achieving absolutely zero.
The 250 troops buried at Pheasant Wood are thought to have won their way through enemy lines only to become isolated and killed in action, then buried by the Germans in a mass grave, only discovered in 2008, after lying undetected for 92 years.
In 2010, the missing Fromelles soldiers were honoured and given their eternal home, the first such military cemetery of its type built in more than 50 years.
It is a beautiful spot, sitting below the Saint-Baptiste à Fromelles church, which tolled its bells as my wife and I wandered the cemetery reading the names of the Diggers whose remains have been identified, largely by DNA, since their discovery.
There is so much more to this story ... private tales of families re-embracing the memory of their lost loved ones who had finally found a place to rest. There are hints of these tales here, with little Australian flags and photos left at the foot of some of the headstones.
Not far from Pheasant Wood, are the Australian Memorial Park and VC Corner Australian Cemetery. Interestingly the memorial park, with its ruined German bunker and dramatic statue of a Digger carrying a wounded colleague, sits on the location of the German frontline before the Fromelles battle in 1916. The Australian cemetery lies 200m away, where Allied troops held fort before their tragic attack.
MONUMENTAL MOMENTS
As you travel the Western Front battlefields you rack up a pile of monuments built in remembrance of those who fought here.
There are the modest, but no less important, monuments like those to the Australian 1st Division at Pozieres, and the identical-styled obelisk memorial to the Australian 3rd Division at Sailly le Sec.
Then there are the slightly more grand edifices of the Thiepval Memorial, dedicated to the missing from the Battle of the Somme, which includes the names of 72,000 British and South African soldiers who died in that gruesome battle but have no known grave; the Bellicourt American Monument, dedicated to the Americans who took part in the successful offensive against the Hindenburg Line in 1918; and the Menin Gate in Ypres (currently under renovation), a memorial to the unidentified thousands who died in Belgian Flanders.
But the most spectacular and beautiful of the memorials that we encountered on our remembrance road trip has to be the Canadian National Vimy Memorial, just north of Arras.
The superstructure itself is perfectly positioned overlooking the site of the Canadian Army's heroics in the Battle of Vimy Ridge in April 1917. But, for me, the gigantic but no less evocative sculptures that decorate the building are what impresses most.
The statue called Canada Bereft, which gazes forlornly over the land that was fought over so tenaciously by hundreds of thousands of troops from around the globe, is simply dazzling at whatever angle you look at it.
And, to give further credit to our Canadian cousins, the visitor centre here is first class, and the tours conducted of the tunnels and renovated trench systems by young Canadian students on sabbatical in France are quite inspiring.
DO NOT FORGET AUSTRALIA
Private Wilfred Walker from Carroll in north-west NSW had tried to enlist in 1916 but was prevented because of a medical condition.
Eventually in 1917 he got his wish and headed to fight with so many other Australians in France. So, on April 24, 1918, Private Walker, my wife Marie's grandfather, was stationed in the French town of Villers-Bretoneux as German forces rained down artillery, including mustard gas shells, on his unit. The gas immediately had its crippling effect and he was evacuated to Britain, before returning to France to rejoin the 35th (Newcastle) Battalion in September, 1918. But his health was forever effected by the German gas, and he died too young, in 1941.
Private Walker's military experiences were not unique, but he had played his small part in circumstances that resulted in a remarkable relationship between Australia and the village of Villers-Bretoneux.
Australia's decisive role in the two battles for Villers which freed the town from the German enemy is still remembered and honoured in the village.
On entering the town you are greeted with a sign that cries out in English: "Do not forget Australia". And, in the town itself the Australian flag is flown proudly and even images of kangaroos are visible on civic buildings.
It is fitting, therefore, that just outside of the village is the towering Australian National Memorial and just behind it, the Sir John Monash Centre.
The centre was opened the day before Anzac Day in 2018 and tells the story of Australia's involvement in World War I. You can use your own mobile phone (remember your earphones) to access a virtual tour through the centre ... and, unlike some such technology, it works efficiently delivering a concise guide to the displays.
Of course, the centre is named after the famous Australian general Sir John Monash, who led our forces in France and is considered one of the better military commanders of the war.
Monash was knighted by King George V at his HQ in the stately Chateau de Bertangles (aka Chateau de Clermont-Tonnerre), near Amiens in August 1918. We made a quick visit to the chateau, which is privately owned and not open to the public. It might be an unfair comparison, but the difference between the living conditions of military leaders and the troops in the trenches is pretty bloody stark.
SOMME CHARM
And, so we return to Amiens, a stepping stone to many of the sites commemorating one of the most destructive conflagrations in history (including Villers-Bretoneux and the Australian National Memorial). Devastated by artillery and aerial bombing in two world wars, this amazing city stands testament to the resilience of the human spirit.
Amiens is a vibrant, cosmopolitan city that enthusiastically contradicts the notoriety of its river and region - the Somme in both cases.
The River Somme is the heartbeat of the city. The restaurants that run along it are vibrant, and I can vouch for the quality of the food served. My wife and I had a brilliant meal at Le Dos d'Ane on the banks of the Somme, with evening sun shimmering behind the Basilique Cathédrale Notre-Dame d'Amiens, the largest cathedral in France.
We also enjoyed kicking back on a boat tour of the Hortillonages, described perfectly in the Visit Amiens website as: "an exceptional mosaic of floating gardens and waterways". These wonderful waterways are located "on the marshy terrain of the old bed of the River Somme". There it is again ... the infamous Somme as a beauty spot!
GRAFFITI GURUS
One of the surprise discoveries when researching our trip was the existence of an "underground city" close to the killing fields of the Great War, and the strange role it played during that conflict.
The Underground City of Naours is a complex of tunnels, rooms and galleries deep under the French countryside. It's origin dates back to Roman times, it was a chalk mine in the 15th Century and was further developed as a hiding place for locals to escape the carnage of invasion that plagued the region in the 17th Century.
But, during World War I these caves became a tourist attraction for soldiers fighting the Germans. Troops on leave or convalescing from injuries, including many Australians, were encouraged to spend time visiting this fascinating labyrinth of 300 chambers and 28 galleries, including quite beautiful chapels, all more than 30m below ground.
And, these visitors from hell left their marks. The caves house a vast and unique collection of graffiti from Great War fighters. There are more than 3000 etchings, at least 60 per cent of them left by Aussie soldiers.
The museum at the site has a comprehensive list of those soldiers who identified themselves in their graffiti, and the museum team will happily see if your relative is among them. Sadly, our Private Walker never left his mark, but who's to say he didn't visit as a trooper tourist.
BRIDGE OF POSSIBILITIES
If may also be that Wilfred is among the multitude of British and dominion forces famously photographed listening to an address by Brigadier Major-General John Campbell after victory in the Battle of St. Quentin Canal in late September, 1918.
We know Private Walker was back at the front with the 9th Brigade and that they fought in the critical battle. Was he one of the troops in the famous photo? We will never know, but we did hunt up Pont de Riqueval, from where Brigadier Campbell made his speech.
Also, it is possible that my own grandfather, Charles Munro Watt, was among that crowd. After serving in Gallipoli with the King's Own Scottish Borderers, he was later assigned to the North Staffordshire Regiment, who happen to be the outfit that famously captured the Riqueval Bridge.
The bridge is the same but the area is now lush with vegetation which obscures the archway from many vantage points. Seeing the contrast with the barren wasteland of battle in 1918 gave us yet another insight into the devastation inflicted by war.
LAST POST
World War I came to an end in a forest clearing near the French city of Compiegne. It was here, aboard a train restaurant car, that the armistice was signed that saw the slaughter end at 11am on November 11, 1918.
And, it was in the identical spot that our battlefields odyssey also concluded with a visit to the Memorial de Armistice, a museum that contains the sister carriage (an exact replica) in which the armistice was signed.
It is an amazing spot and one that every Western Front visitor should try to get to. The carriage and surrounds evoke a weird feeling which seem to connect you to the drama that occurred on this very piece of land.
The second and darker part of this history is that vindictive German dictator Adolf Hitler forced the French to surrender aboard the same carriage in the exact same spot after their ignominious defeat in 1940.
The original train was then stolen by the Nazis and taken to Germany before being destroyed in a fire as the Allied victory in WWII approached in 1945.
And, so our World War I journey of remembrance ended, in the glade where all that bloodshed was finally concluded. It seemed fitting.
Our trip was self-financed. We flew Emirates from Sydney to Amsterdam, caught the Eurostar train to Brussels, and hired an Avis car for the road trip. Our accommodation was at Les Anges Appartements in Arras, and a B&B on the banks of the Somme called Au Jardin Sur L’Leau, just outside of Amiens. In Brussels we stayed at the OPO (Old Post Office) Hotel.
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